Thursday, April 1, 2010

The Good (Friday) Fish

My dad was born on Good Friday, April 5, 1924 so the day holds a special place in my heart, over and above any religious significance.

In his home island of Trinidad, religion is almost a mix and match affair. It's not uncommon to see a Hindu puja altar equally crowded with Christian saints. Korans and Bibles co-exist in many a home, because of the cultural amalgam that is par for the course in our culture. For those religious Christians (particularly in the Lenten season) keeping with the tradition of fish on Friday is pretty easy in our laden island waters.

While seafood recipes can be quite elaborate in the West Indies, this fried fish recipe is fairly common on most islands, and one which my dad made often, not just on Good Friday. For my money, the best fish fryers are found in Barbados. Oistin Town's Fish Fry, every Friday night, is part outdoor market (that morning's catch is what's hitting the oil) and part festival where cold beer, hot fish, and plenty of spice keep the mood high. In Jamaica, you won't find fresher fish that at Prendy's On the Beach, a bar/fish stand in Hellshire village. Proprietor Donnette Prendergast's husband is a career fisherman, and he docks on the beach that fronts the restaurant throughout the day, with his fresh catch. You can read more about Prendy's as part of my article The Flavor of Jamaica for Islands Magazine


Fried Fish
6 servings

The best fish for this recipe is flying fish, a sweet fish found largely in the waters between Tobago and Barbados. Flying fish can sometimes be found frozen in West Indian markets, but if you can’t find it, substitute any firm-fleshed white fish fillet, such as tilapia or catfish.

Fish
2 pounds flying fish fillets (or other firm-fleshed white fish)
2 tablespoons green seasoning (recipe below)
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Breading
1 1/2 cups dry bread crumbs
1 teaspoon dried, ground oregano
1 teaspoon dried parsley
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 cup canola oil, for frying
Sliced tomato for garnish (optional)
Lime wedges, for garnish (optional)

1. Rinse the fish and pat dry. Mix the green seasoning with the garlic powder, salt, and black pepper, then rub into the fish. Place the fish in a nonreactive dish, covered in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
2. For the breading, mix all the ingredients in a shallow bowl.

3. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and dip in the breading mixture, coating both sides of each fillet evenly. Place the fillets on a clean plate and refrigerate again for 15 minutes.

  1. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan and add the fish fillets, frying until golden brown on both sides. Do not crowd the pan. Remove and drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet or on paper towels.
  2.  Serve on a platter garnished with the tomato slices and lime wedges, with peas and rice (recipe below), or a green salad, or on sandwich rolls.


Makes 1 cup

The area of Paramin, perched breathtakingly high atop the mountains of Trinidad’s Northern Range, is the herb basket of the country. The steeply sloped hillsides and cool mountain air, make the region ideal for growing herbs like shado beni, chives, thyme, and parsley. The Creole-descent farmers who cultivate these plants are the go-to guys for every Trinidadian cook, since their spices are an absolute necessity for the local pantry. The addition of shallots, onions, and vinegar, and the omission of oregano, makes it a bit different from standard green seasoning although you can substitute one for the another.

4 large shallots, peeled, and coarsely chopped
1 bunch chives, minced (about 1 cup)
1 small bunch fresh thyme, minced (about 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup stemmed and chopped flat leaf parsley
2 tablespoons minced shado beni or cilantro
1 medium-size onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons white vinegar

  1. Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor or blender and puree, adding vinegar as needed to achieve a smooth, somewhat liquid paste.
  2. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Pigeon Peas and Rice

Makes 8 servings

Often simply called “peas and rice” this dish can be a meal unto itself with the addition of salt pork or ham. Even omitting the meat, peas and rice form a complete protein—a vegetarian’s delight. You may want to increase the amount of salt if you omit the salt pork.

1 1/2 cups dry or 1 (15-ounce) can pigeon peas or pinto beans
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 pound salt pork or cured ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (optional)
1 small onion, chopped
1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and copped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 sprig thyme
2 cups long-grain rice
1/2 Scotch bonnet pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 teaspoon salt or to taste

  1. If using dry beans, soak them overnight in 5 1/2 cups of cold water. Drain and set aside. If using canned beans, rinse well under cold running water and set aside.
  2. Heat the oil in a deep saucepan and add the salt pork. Fry for 1 minute. Add the onion and fry for 1 minute more, then add the green and red bell pepper. Sauté until the onions are soft, then stir in the garlic. Cook for 30 seconds.
  3. Add the peas, parsley, and thyme, and stir well to combine.
  4. Wash the rice by placing it in a deep bowl and adding enough cold water to cover. Swirl the rice with your hand until the water is cloudy and then pour off the water, taking care not pour out the rice. Repeat 3-4 times or until the washing water becomes clear. Gently stir in the rice so as not to break the rice grains. Add enough water to rise above the surface of the rice mixture by 1/2 inch, about 2 1/2 cups.
  5. Stir in the salt and reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cook, covered, for 30 minutes, or until the rice is cooked but not sticky. All the water should be absorbed.
  6. Fluff with a fork and remove the thyme. Spoon the rice onto a serving platter. Garnish with fresh thyme sprigs if desired.


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