Sweet Hands 2nd Edition Available July 19th!

Props to a Great Caribbean Chef

Puerto Rico, being part of the United States, is often forgotten as a member of the Caribbean. I'm fortunate enough to be friends with--and sampled the amazing dishes of--a wonderful Puerto Rican chef, who I also count as a Caribbean sister: Chef Daisy Martinez

Daisy is a truly amazing person. One who is not only talented in the kitchen but truly kind of heart--I know this first hand from her generous emcee'ing services for the Food4Haiti fundraiser I put together after the earthquake early this year.

Since I'm a believer in "what comes around", I've started a petition to the committee of the New York Puerto Rican Day Parade to consider Daisy--a native daughter of NYC of Puerto Rican descent--as a candidate for Grand Marshall in 2011.

You can sign the petition here: ChefDaisy4GrandMarsh

Or join the facebook page here: Chef Daisy Martinez for PR Parade 2011 Grand Marshall

Please consider joining and signing...One Love!

A Special Toast!

Memorial Day Weekend is the unofficial beginning of the celebratory feel of summer. If you are looking for a good libation that is juicy, fruity, sweet, sparkly--in short, everything that summer really is, check out this recipe for Rum Punch.

And while your sipping, please raise a toast to Kamla Persad-Bissessar the first Female Prime Minister of Trinidad & Tobago! Here's to you Madame Prime Minister!!  

Trinidad Rum Punch

20 (4-ounce) servings

Rum punch is a standard party libation, and in 2004, Angostura, the bottlers of the famous bitters and a major rum manufacturer, began bottling various versions for mass distribution. Convenient though this may be, a rum punch recipe is a family tradition and I doubt many folks will abandon theirs. Here is mine.

1 small mango, peeled and chopped, or 1 cup frozen ripe mango, thawed

1 cup sliced fresh or frozen strawberries

1 cup fresh or canned pineapple chunks

1 (4-ounce) can mandarin orange slices with juice

1/4 cup maraschino cherries

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

1/4 teaspoon mixed essence

2 teaspoons Angostura bitters

1/2 pint dark rum (such as Old Oak or Myer’s), chilled

2 cups tropical fruit juice (such as Welch’s Tropical Passion Juice from concentrate)

1/2 pint coconut rum, chilled

1 liter ginger ale, chilled

2 cups sparkling white wine (such as Freixenet), chilled

1 navel orange, unpeeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

1 star fruit, sliced horizontally (1/4 inch thick)

1. In a large punch bowl, combine the mango, strawberries, pineapple chunks, mandarin orange slices with their juice, and maraschino cherries. Add the coconut extract, mixed essence, Angostura bitters, and rum. Place the bowl in the refrigerator or set over crushed ice, and allow the fruit to macerate for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.

2. Stir the tropical fruit juice into the fruit mixture. Gently pour in the ginger ale and sparkling wine so as not to lose too much carbonation. Float the orange slices and star fruit slices on top. Serve over crushed ice. 

Cocoa Short Ribs

Braised short ribs are a classic French preparation and I've seen many a continental and Asian twist on the form. Working on my new book--a culinary mystery with recipes--I came up with this version as part of a five course meal served at a posh fictional dinner party in Port of Spain. Precious Trinidad cocoa, among the finest and most sought after in the world, make up the rich flavor that is the backbone of the dish. I suggest serving it with "stiff polenta" or Coo Coo as we call it: cornmeal with okra.  Enjoy.

Trinidad Cocoa Short Ribs

 Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons canola oil

6 pounds bone-in short ribs

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onions

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

1/4 cup finely chopped celery

1/4 cup finely chopped peeled carrots

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 cups dry red wine

1 cup good quality dark rum, such as Trinidad Royal oak

1 tablespoon Angostura Bitters

3 cups low-salt chicken broth

2 cups chopped drained canned diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 very large fresh thyme sprig

2 leaves Mexican culantro (shado beni) chopped roughly

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

3 tablespoons shaved or grated bittersweet Triniatario chocolate such as AMadei Trinidad Dark bar

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process)

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1.     1. Heat heavy large pot over medium heat. Add canola oil. Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, brown ribs in pot over medium-high heat until brown on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer to plate.

2.   2.   Add onions and next 4 ingredients to pot. Cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook until vegetables are soft, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add wine, rum and Angostura Bitters. Boil uncovered until liquid is reduced by half, scraping up browned bits, about 5 minutes.

3.     3. Add broth, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, culantro (shado beni), bay leaf, and cinnamon. Return ribs to pot, cover partially, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Uncover and simmer until rib meat is tender, stirring occasionally, about 1 1/2 hours longer.

4.    4.  Transfer ribs to plate; discard bay leaf and cinnamon stick. Spoon fat from surface of sauce. Boil sauce until beginning to thicken, about 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium.

5.   5.   Add chocolate, cocoa powder, and rosemary; stir until chocolate melts. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return ribs to pot. Simmer to rewarm, about 5 minutes.

Coo Coo (Stiff Polenta with Okra)

4 servings

This thick cornmeal cake is a delicious if heavy side dish that is ideal for sopping up the juices of stewed meats.

1 cup coconut milk

12 okras, stemmed and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces, or 1 cup frozen, sliced okra

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup cornmeal

1.  Lightly grease a 2-quart bowl and set aside.

 2. Mix 1 cup of water and the coconut milk in a saucepan. Add the okra and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the salt and black pepper, and mix well Add the cornmeal slowly, mixing constantly. Continue stirring vigorously while cooking over medium-low heat. Cook until the mixture holds a stiff peak, about 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Pour into the greased bowl and smooth the top. Allow to set for 1 to 2 minutes, then invert onto a plate. Slice and serve. 

How To Make Rice

Rice is a huge staple in Trinidadian cuisine. This is because of the huge (nearly 50%) East Indian descent population that lives on the island. Growing up, we ate rice nearly every day. This was not only because of Trinidad heritage but because my mother was Iranian--another culture that could exist on rice alone.

Being of mixed rice stock, I've learned one thing. While others may eat rice prodigiously, Iranians are easily the master rice makers of the world. As a result, I use the Iranian rice-cooking method whenever I make this grain--even in classic Caribbean cuisine. The method can vary from complex to fairly simple. Chelo, a method that requires washing and presoaking the rice, then parboiling and steaming, takes time and patience but produces beautiful results. However, the short method, which still requires washing, but less cooking time is incredibly easy and virtually no fail for fluffy grains--as long as it is followed precisely.

Here is the simple method--called kateh in Farsi. The real key is to make sure the rice is washed well. Additionally, I use high quality basmati rice, and Lal Qilla brand is my favorite.

Plain Rice

1 1/2 cup basmati or other long grain white rice

2 teaspoon canola oil or ghee

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

 

1.     Place rice in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 1 or 2 inches. Swirl rice around with your hand until the water becomes cloudy and then gently pour off the water being careful not to pour out the rice. Repeat this process 2-3 times or until the rice washing water runs clear. Drain rice.

2.     Place rice in a 2 quart saucepan (preferably nonstick)  and add enough water to cover the rice by 1/2 inch from its surface.

3.     Add the canola oil or ghee and the salt. Mix well and place over a medium heat.

4.     When the rice begins to simmer, mix well one more time and watch carefully. When almost all the water is absorbed and “crab holes” begin to form in the rice, lower heat to low and place a doubled up paper towel or  clean dish towel over the top of the pot. Place the pot lid firmly over this, pressing down to make a tight seal.

5.     Cook rice, allowing it to steam, for 15-20 minutes more. Remove lid and fluff. 

 

How To Crack A Coconut

Last week I did a post about my friend Nancie McDermott's luscious coconut cake. Another friend, and former student Roger Kimpton, asked how one exactly cracks a coconut. In response, I am posting the essay on how to do just this, from my book Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago. Once the coconut is cracked and peeled, you can grate on a box grater or using a food processor's grater wheel.




Photo, courtesy ehow.com

Watching my father crack open a coconut was one of the most terrifying experiences of my childhood. Like most West Indians, my father split the coconut’s hard shell with a long cutlass, wide and curved at the tip and nearly two feet long. It resembled something out of Aladdin and it was scary.

If the coconut was green—a delicacy only to be had on trips to Trinidad—he would hold it in his palm and level its head with the cutlass in a smooth slicing motion. Or, he might take angular chops around the crown.

The purpose of either method cut was to create an opening large enough to pour out the sweet young coconut water, which is said to have high nutritional value, especially for pregnant women with morning sickness. After the water is drained, the coconut jelly is scooped out and eaten with a spoon fashioned from the chopped shell. This jelly is what hardens into the white coconut flesh as the fruit ages.

If the coconut was already aged, removing it from the green outer husk required deep slashes with the cutlass and then enormous strength to peel away the skin. In the States we only got dry, husked coconuts—if we were lucky—in the supermarket, but more often on a trip to the Caribbean neighborhoods of Brooklyn and Queens. Today, both green coconuts and dry coconuts are readily available in many gourmet supermarkets.

To crack a dry coconut, my father again pulled out that cutlass. He held the coconut in one hand and whacked down on it with the cutlass held in the other. Every time he did this, I was sure he would cut himself, or worse, cut off his hand. He never did. Wielding a cutlass is a talent that Trinidadians seem to manage with aplomb.

I myself am far too afraid to have anything to do with cutlasses, machetes, or butcher knives screaming toward objects held in my opposite hand--so I’ve developed my own method for draining and cracking coconuts.

Dry coconuts have three “eyes,” one of which is always soft and easily pierced with a paring knife. Sometimes a second eye can be pierced as well, but this is less often the case. Once the eye is pierced, I invert the coconut onto a heavy glass or pitcher that can prop up the fruit while catching the draining liquid. I reserve this water for flavorings in breads and sauces.

To crack the coconut, I leave it in a 400°F degree oven until the heat cracks the hard shell. Granted, this does change the flavor of the coconut a bit, but it is fine for baked goods since the grated coconut will be cooked anyway.

When whole coconuts can’t be had, I opt for packaged, unsweetened shredded coconut—fresh-frozen is better than dry and is easily found in Middle Eastern, Indian, and Caribbean markets. Coconut water is also available canned. Goya is one popular brand.

Strong Drink

My friend John Field is a rum lover which, in my opinion, puts him ahead of the curve. I've long said that boutique sipping rums are the next big drink trend. Think of it it in the way high-end tequila  and vodka have become de rigeur. I wrote about this  a few years back for epicurious.com but given that the  rum is finally getting its day, I think the article bears reposting here. You'll find some tips on boutique rums, pairings with chocolate, and more than a bit of its  rumbunctious  history.

Since the article was written a number of American rum manufacturers have hit the scene including Tuthilltown Spirits (New York); Graham Barnes (Texas); Celebration Distilleries (New Orleans);  Newport Distilling (Rhode Island) and many more which you can read about at one of the best sources for rum on the web or elsewhere: Ministry of Rum.

Surprised? You shouldn't be. Rum was not originally a major product of the Caribbean--until Bacardi came on the scene. Sugar cane was shipped to the American colonies were it was to be processed into sugar but more often became rum. Rum was a distinctly North American drink. These distillers are just reprising a historical movement. To learn more read on, and have a try at my new drink recipe below. It's as yet untested--let me know what you think!

 

 

Born to Rum

Discover a Caribbean revival
By Ramin Ganeshram

L ong before tiki glasses or cocktails topped with bright paper umbrellas hit the scene, rum was a cultural power player. The quintessential New World spirit, rum has colonial origins that well predate other liquors of the Americas, such as bourbon or American whiskeys.
In its 400-plus years of production, this spirit has been everything from currency to political trump card, and not only its history is complex. Today, rum may be best known as the single most-mixed liquor in the bartending world, but many distillers are returning to the libation's rich history of refined production by creating aged, specialty, and hand-mixed rums that even the most sophisticated liquor connoisseur can enjoy.

A Sweet History

When Christopher Columbus first brought sugarcane to the Caribbean, little did he know that he was also revolutionizing the drinking world. It didn't take long for producers to realize that they could ferment the molasses that was a by-product of sugar production then distill it into a high-proof flavored spirit called "rum"—most likely a contraction of the word "rumbullion," meaning strong liquor.
So popular was this new drink that it became the basis for a wide variety of beverages, including punches; the demand for it skyrocketed. The British Royal Navy even issued a private rum to all its sailors. This daily ration of Pusser's British Navy Rum, called "grog," was comprised of agricole rums (made by fermenting free-run sugarcane juice) from several locales including Trinidad, Guyana, and the British Virgin Islands. It remained a tradition for three centuries, until 1970, and is available on the general market today.
The demand for rum was so great that at one point the British had to enact laws to ensure that cane was not entirely consumed to make rum but also used to make sugar, for which it was the primary source.
In those early days, a good portion of rum production occurred outside the West Indies. Distillers in Britain and the colonies in New England purchased molasses and made rum on-site. The rum served a twofold purpose: a medium both for trade with Native Americans and for export to Europe, which in turn bartered it for human cargo.
Seeking cheaper sources for their molasses, the Americans began to buy a treaclelike by-product from the French and Portuguese colonies, thereby undercutting their motherland counterparts. To limit these activities, the Crown placed heavy taxes on molasses imports in a series of acts that were the actual basis for the movement toward independence.
Post-Revolution free access to West Indian molasses was short-lived. British naval blockades during the War of 1812 heralded the death of the American rum industry. The majority of rum production reverted to the American South, while Australia, Hawaii, and Tahiti produced rums of their own.

More than a Mai Tai

In its earliest days, rum was most often used in mixed beverages and punch for a reason: It was simply too rough on the palate to sip enjoyably. As production, aging, and flavoring processes improved, a more sophisticated variety of rums came to the fore.
By the early 19th century, a continuous-distillation process was perfected in England, replacing the old method of pot-still aging. The result was a nearly tasteless but uniform product that could be enhanced by flavoring and coloring methods as well as oak-cask aging for at least one year.
Some decades later, in Cuba during the 1860s, Don Facundo Bacardi founded what was to one day become a rum empire. Perfecting white rum for mixing, as well as aged, sipping rums, the Bacardi firm eventually moved to Puerto Rico and continues to make the majority of rum consumed in the United States and elsewhere.
Among the types of mass-produced rums are light rums, also called white or silver, which are like vodka—clear, odorless, and nearly flavorless. Distillers sometimes filter light rums or age them in stainless-steel tanks to achieve purity. Gold or amber rums are aged in oak and sometimes spiced by infusing the rum with a variety of ingredients, including cinnamon and nutmeg. Caramel or other food coloring can be added to achieve the right hue. Dark or black rum is aged in charred barrels and features a molasses or burnt-sugar overtone. It is the type of rum most often used in culinary preparations.
"Over-proof" or "puncheon" rums, typically unavailable in the United States, have alcohol content of greater than 75 percent and are often the basis for strong rum punches. Cachaça, Brazilian rum made from free-run cane juice, is aged lightly in fruitwood casks.
Yet, even as mechanization created more consistent products, premium or añejo (aged) rums maintained a certain niche. Made in limited quantities, each is often a hand-drawn product of several rums that is carefully mixed and then aged in oak. Aged rums have corks rather than screw caps. Pot-still fermentation, which creates richer flavor, fuller body, and darker tone, is also a characteristic of premium rums.

A New Mix

A relatively untouched industry since its inception, rum has in recent years (like vodka) gone through new incarnations, including versions flavored with coconut, pineapple, citrus, and apple. These head primarily into mixed drinks. Companies such as Angostura Limited of Trinidad, makers of the world-famous bitters, are now bottling rum punch in a variety of flavors for commercial sale, as well as specialty products like Rum Cream, made from rum, spices, and heavy cream.
Just as premium tequila now enjoys a following among gourmands, boutique brands of premium rums are rapidly gaining a place in the market among connoisseurs. Jamaica's Appleton Estate 21-year-aged and V/X rums fall into this category. So do Anguilla Pyrat Cask 23, blended from fine rums aged up to 40 years, Haiti's Rhum Barbancourt, released in limited quantity, and Trinidad's Angostura 1824, a dark rum aged 12 years.
Whatever your preference—rums for mixing or sipping—take the time to taste the rum as you would wine, exploring its many complexities of flavor, aroma, and color.

Recommended Rums

Most drinkers are quite familiar with white and amber rums used primarily for mixed drinks. Varieties from Bacardi and Captain Morgan are solid examples of the type.
Below is a roundup of some excellent premium rums that rival cognacs, single-malt scotches, and aged tequila for sipping.
Bacardi 8 Reserve ($22)
Deep, clear-amber, Cuban-style mixed rum from Puerto Rico. An excellent introduction to sipping rums that tasters will find has the familiar Bacardi Gold taste, although fuller-bodied, with smoother finish.
Pusser's British Navy Rum ($25)
Light copper color, similar in hue and depth to brandy. This full but mellow rum from Trinidad, Guyana, and British Virgin Islands has a delicately spicy nose.
Rhum Barbancourt 15-Year Reserve ($34)
Dark, reddish gold from Haiti, it has lightly spiced notes and a pleasantly sharp finish.
Santa Teresa, Antigua de Solera Rum ($37)
Dry rum from Venezuela with hints of vanilla, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Angostura 1824 ($44)
Hand-drawn and casked, this Trinidadian is aged in charred oak casks for 12 years. Its rich flavor and sweet nose is bottled in a handblown glass decanter.
Neisson Rum Agricole Reserve Special ($70)
Blended and aged in oak barrels, this Martinique-made rum has a prominent taste of dark fruit and nuts.
Appleton Estate 21-Year-Old Rum ($100)
Hand-blended, using rums aged a minimum of 21 years. Made in Jamaica, it has a medium body, with delicate nose and easy finish.
Pyrat Cask 23 ($300)
More like cognac than rum: It is a hand-mixed combination of fine, aged rums from throughout the Caribbean. It has a limited production, is bottled in handblown glass, and packaged in incense cedar.

An Uncommon Pairing: Rum & Chocolate

Like rum, chocolate is a product of the Caribbean, and, like sugarcane, cocoa plants are highly affected by the specific terroir in which they are grown. As a result, premium single-source chocolate made with a high percentage of the delicate and rare Criollo bean or the highly prized Trinitario bean can make for a simple yet excellent dessert pairing with fine rum. Try Pyrat's Cask 23 with a nibble of Grenada Chocolate Company's 71-percent Dark Chocolate, or taste Valrhona's Gran Couva, made with authentic Trinidadian Trinitario beans, with a snifter of Angostura 1824. Rhum Barbancourt is well matched with Michel Cluizel's Hacienda Los Ancones 67-percent-cacao squares.

Bitters Revenge

4 (6 ounce) servings

1 cup package soursop (guanabana) pulp, thawed

1 cup evaporated milk

1/2 cup Angostura 1919 Rum

1/2 cup Amarula Liquor

2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk

2 tablespoons Angostura Bitters

1/8 teaspoon, cayenne pepper powder

Pink Himalayan salt for garnish

Place all the ingredients in a blender with 2 cups crushed ice and puree until smooth. Serve in Margarita or Hurricane glasses. Garnish each drink with a few crystals of Pink Salt.