Nouvelle Irish Trinidad: The Ice Cream Caper

Today my colleague and fellow Stuyvesant HS alum, noted food writer Melissa Clark of the New York Times posted a Facebook query about thickening ice cream sans eggs. To achieve this, normally, I use a traditional gelatin like Knox brand for the purpose. It's something I do when I don't want the yolk flavor to dominate a more delicate profile like that of coconut.

But today Melissa's query made me think.

In Trinidad--and Jamaica, Montesserat and Barbados for that matter--islands with a colonial history of Irish indentureship we have something called Sea Moss drink. It's made using carrageen, or Irish Moss. In Ireland, a milk pudding called Carrageen Pudding is made with the stuff. The seaweed is dried and tossed into the scalding milk and sugar that is the first step to making the dessert. The moss contains a gelatin akin to agar agar, and when the milk mixture is cooled it becomes firms.

When I met the inimitable Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House a few years ago, she served me this treat, made from carrageen that she had gathered from the County Cork shores near her home and then dried herself. Later it occurred to met hat Sea Moss Drink, like our Christmas Black Cake, were the last remnants of the Irish influence on Caribbean culture.

So, today I decided to mash the two recipes together and give Coconut Ice Cream a go, using Irish Sea Moss or Carrageen as the thickener.

It worked just fine.

Here's the recipe (and one for Sea Moss Drink) from my book Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago (Hippocrene Books 2010)

Thanks Melissa!

Coconut Ice Cream (Thickened with Carrageen)

4 ounces Irish Sea Moss (Carrageen) or 1 envelope unlfavored Knox gelatin

2 tablespoons whole milk

2 cups heavy cream

2 cups coconut milk

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1/2 teaspoon mixed essence or vanilla extract

1 teaspoon coconut extract

Sweetened shredded coconut flakes, for garnish

1. If using gelatin, Sprinkle the gelatin over the whole milk and set aside to dissolve.

2. If using sea moss, place it with  the cream and coconut milk in a saucepan along with the sugar. Mix well and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to stir until the sugar is totally dissolved.

3. Remove the pan from the heat and add the shredded coconut,, mixed essence and coconut essence. Add the gelatin mixture (if using Knox brand) and mix until totally dissolved.

4. Allow the mixture to cool completely in the refrigerator, remove the carrageen stems, if using, then pour into an ice cream maker. Freeze, following the manufacturer’s directions.
5. Pack ice cream into 2 quart containers and freeze overnight until solid. Serve garnished with coconut flakes, if desired.

Sea Moss Drink

4 10 ounce servings

To me, what’s most interesting about Sea Moss or Irish Moss drink is that it seems to be one of the few remaining connections to the Irish indentured laborers that were prevalent on Trinidad, Jamaica, Montserrat, and other English colonies in the Caribbean. On a trip to Ireland, I tasted Carrageen Pudding. made from milk, sugar, and thickened with dried Irish Sea moss.  From the first spoonful, I noticed the resemblance to Sea Moss drink that is version of the same pudding using evaporated versus fresh milk with a shake-like consistency. Both the pudding and the drink is something of an acquired taste and is thought to be a constitution fortifier in both lands.

2 ounces dried sea moss (available in Caribbean markets)

Juice of 1/2 lime

4 cups evaporated milk

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons Angostura Bitters

1. Place the sea moss in a bowl with the lime juice and 1/2 cup of water. Allow to soak overnight.

2. Drain, place in a saucepan with 2 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the sea moss looks like a wad of jelly. Remove the pan from the heat and cool.

3. Place the sea moss mixture in a blender with the evaporated milk and sugar. Puree for 1 minute, or until smooth. Add the bitters and serve over crushed ice.

Sweet Hands 2nd Edition Available July 19th!

Props to a Great Caribbean Chef

Puerto Rico, being part of the United States, is often forgotten as a member of the Caribbean. I'm fortunate enough to be friends with--and sampled the amazing dishes of--a wonderful Puerto Rican chef, who I also count as a Caribbean sister: Chef Daisy Martinez

Daisy is a truly amazing person. One who is not only talented in the kitchen but truly kind of heart--I know this first hand from her generous emcee'ing services for the Food4Haiti fundraiser I put together after the earthquake early this year.

Since I'm a believer in "what comes around", I've started a petition to the committee of the New York Puerto Rican Day Parade to consider Daisy--a native daughter of NYC of Puerto Rican descent--as a candidate for Grand Marshall in 2011.

You can sign the petition here: ChefDaisy4GrandMarsh

Or join the facebook page here: Chef Daisy Martinez for PR Parade 2011 Grand Marshall

Please consider joining and signing...One Love!

A Special Toast!

Memorial Day Weekend is the unofficial beginning of the celebratory feel of summer. If you are looking for a good libation that is juicy, fruity, sweet, sparkly--in short, everything that summer really is, check out this recipe for Rum Punch.

And while your sipping, please raise a toast to Kamla Persad-Bissessar the first Female Prime Minister of Trinidad & Tobago! Here's to you Madame Prime Minister!!  

Trinidad Rum Punch

20 (4-ounce) servings

Rum punch is a standard party libation, and in 2004, Angostura, the bottlers of the famous bitters and a major rum manufacturer, began bottling various versions for mass distribution. Convenient though this may be, a rum punch recipe is a family tradition and I doubt many folks will abandon theirs. Here is mine.

1 small mango, peeled and chopped, or 1 cup frozen ripe mango, thawed

1 cup sliced fresh or frozen strawberries

1 cup fresh or canned pineapple chunks

1 (4-ounce) can mandarin orange slices with juice

1/4 cup maraschino cherries

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

1/4 teaspoon mixed essence

2 teaspoons Angostura bitters

1/2 pint dark rum (such as Old Oak or Myer’s), chilled

2 cups tropical fruit juice (such as Welch’s Tropical Passion Juice from concentrate)

1/2 pint coconut rum, chilled

1 liter ginger ale, chilled

2 cups sparkling white wine (such as Freixenet), chilled

1 navel orange, unpeeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

1 star fruit, sliced horizontally (1/4 inch thick)

1. In a large punch bowl, combine the mango, strawberries, pineapple chunks, mandarin orange slices with their juice, and maraschino cherries. Add the coconut extract, mixed essence, Angostura bitters, and rum. Place the bowl in the refrigerator or set over crushed ice, and allow the fruit to macerate for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.

2. Stir the tropical fruit juice into the fruit mixture. Gently pour in the ginger ale and sparkling wine so as not to lose too much carbonation. Float the orange slices and star fruit slices on top. Serve over crushed ice. 

Cocoa Short Ribs

Braised short ribs are a classic French preparation and I've seen many a continental and Asian twist on the form. Working on my new book--a culinary mystery with recipes--I came up with this version as part of a five course meal served at a posh fictional dinner party in Port of Spain. Precious Trinidad cocoa, among the finest and most sought after in the world, make up the rich flavor that is the backbone of the dish. I suggest serving it with "stiff polenta" or Coo Coo as we call it: cornmeal with okra.  Enjoy.

Trinidad Cocoa Short Ribs

 Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons canola oil

6 pounds bone-in short ribs

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onions

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

1/4 cup finely chopped celery

1/4 cup finely chopped peeled carrots

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 cups dry red wine

1 cup good quality dark rum, such as Trinidad Royal oak

1 tablespoon Angostura Bitters

3 cups low-salt chicken broth

2 cups chopped drained canned diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 very large fresh thyme sprig

2 leaves Mexican culantro (shado beni) chopped roughly

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

3 tablespoons shaved or grated bittersweet Triniatario chocolate such as AMadei Trinidad Dark bar

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process)

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1.     1. Heat heavy large pot over medium heat. Add canola oil. Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, brown ribs in pot over medium-high heat until brown on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer to plate.

2.   2.   Add onions and next 4 ingredients to pot. Cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook until vegetables are soft, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add wine, rum and Angostura Bitters. Boil uncovered until liquid is reduced by half, scraping up browned bits, about 5 minutes.

3.     3. Add broth, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, culantro (shado beni), bay leaf, and cinnamon. Return ribs to pot, cover partially, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Uncover and simmer until rib meat is tender, stirring occasionally, about 1 1/2 hours longer.

4.    4.  Transfer ribs to plate; discard bay leaf and cinnamon stick. Spoon fat from surface of sauce. Boil sauce until beginning to thicken, about 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium.

5.   5.   Add chocolate, cocoa powder, and rosemary; stir until chocolate melts. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return ribs to pot. Simmer to rewarm, about 5 minutes.

Coo Coo (Stiff Polenta with Okra)

4 servings

This thick cornmeal cake is a delicious if heavy side dish that is ideal for sopping up the juices of stewed meats.

1 cup coconut milk

12 okras, stemmed and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces, or 1 cup frozen, sliced okra

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup cornmeal

1.  Lightly grease a 2-quart bowl and set aside.

 2. Mix 1 cup of water and the coconut milk in a saucepan. Add the okra and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the salt and black pepper, and mix well Add the cornmeal slowly, mixing constantly. Continue stirring vigorously while cooking over medium-low heat. Cook until the mixture holds a stiff peak, about 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Pour into the greased bowl and smooth the top. Allow to set for 1 to 2 minutes, then invert onto a plate. Slice and serve. 

How To Make Rice

Rice is a huge staple in Trinidadian cuisine. This is because of the huge (nearly 50%) East Indian descent population that lives on the island. Growing up, we ate rice nearly every day. This was not only because of Trinidad heritage but because my mother was Iranian--another culture that could exist on rice alone.

Being of mixed rice stock, I've learned one thing. While others may eat rice prodigiously, Iranians are easily the master rice makers of the world. As a result, I use the Iranian rice-cooking method whenever I make this grain--even in classic Caribbean cuisine. The method can vary from complex to fairly simple. Chelo, a method that requires washing and presoaking the rice, then parboiling and steaming, takes time and patience but produces beautiful results. However, the short method, which still requires washing, but less cooking time is incredibly easy and virtually no fail for fluffy grains--as long as it is followed precisely.

Here is the simple method--called kateh in Farsi. The real key is to make sure the rice is washed well. Additionally, I use high quality basmati rice, and Lal Qilla brand is my favorite.

Plain Rice

1 1/2 cup basmati or other long grain white rice

2 teaspoon canola oil or ghee

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

 

1.     Place rice in a deep bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 1 or 2 inches. Swirl rice around with your hand until the water becomes cloudy and then gently pour off the water being careful not to pour out the rice. Repeat this process 2-3 times or until the rice washing water runs clear. Drain rice.

2.     Place rice in a 2 quart saucepan (preferably nonstick)  and add enough water to cover the rice by 1/2 inch from its surface.

3.     Add the canola oil or ghee and the salt. Mix well and place over a medium heat.

4.     When the rice begins to simmer, mix well one more time and watch carefully. When almost all the water is absorbed and “crab holes” begin to form in the rice, lower heat to low and place a doubled up paper towel or  clean dish towel over the top of the pot. Place the pot lid firmly over this, pressing down to make a tight seal.

5.     Cook rice, allowing it to steam, for 15-20 minutes more. Remove lid and fluff. 

 

How To Crack A Coconut

Last week I did a post about my friend Nancie McDermott's luscious coconut cake. Another friend, and former student Roger Kimpton, asked how one exactly cracks a coconut. In response, I am posting the essay on how to do just this, from my book Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago. Once the coconut is cracked and peeled, you can grate on a box grater or using a food processor's grater wheel.




Photo, courtesy ehow.com

Watching my father crack open a coconut was one of the most terrifying experiences of my childhood. Like most West Indians, my father split the coconut’s hard shell with a long cutlass, wide and curved at the tip and nearly two feet long. It resembled something out of Aladdin and it was scary.

If the coconut was green—a delicacy only to be had on trips to Trinidad—he would hold it in his palm and level its head with the cutlass in a smooth slicing motion. Or, he might take angular chops around the crown.

The purpose of either method cut was to create an opening large enough to pour out the sweet young coconut water, which is said to have high nutritional value, especially for pregnant women with morning sickness. After the water is drained, the coconut jelly is scooped out and eaten with a spoon fashioned from the chopped shell. This jelly is what hardens into the white coconut flesh as the fruit ages.

If the coconut was already aged, removing it from the green outer husk required deep slashes with the cutlass and then enormous strength to peel away the skin. In the States we only got dry, husked coconuts—if we were lucky—in the supermarket, but more often on a trip to the Caribbean neighborhoods of Brooklyn and Queens. Today, both green coconuts and dry coconuts are readily available in many gourmet supermarkets.

To crack a dry coconut, my father again pulled out that cutlass. He held the coconut in one hand and whacked down on it with the cutlass held in the other. Every time he did this, I was sure he would cut himself, or worse, cut off his hand. He never did. Wielding a cutlass is a talent that Trinidadians seem to manage with aplomb.

I myself am far too afraid to have anything to do with cutlasses, machetes, or butcher knives screaming toward objects held in my opposite hand--so I’ve developed my own method for draining and cracking coconuts.

Dry coconuts have three “eyes,” one of which is always soft and easily pierced with a paring knife. Sometimes a second eye can be pierced as well, but this is less often the case. Once the eye is pierced, I invert the coconut onto a heavy glass or pitcher that can prop up the fruit while catching the draining liquid. I reserve this water for flavorings in breads and sauces.

To crack the coconut, I leave it in a 400°F degree oven until the heat cracks the hard shell. Granted, this does change the flavor of the coconut a bit, but it is fine for baked goods since the grated coconut will be cooked anyway.

When whole coconuts can’t be had, I opt for packaged, unsweetened shredded coconut—fresh-frozen is better than dry and is easily found in Middle Eastern, Indian, and Caribbean markets. Coconut water is also available canned. Goya is one popular brand.